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Lills Quilt Rack Part V The Needed Shelf

Once I had routed all six legs even with the templates I turned to the shelf.

The leg blanks for the left side.

The shelf was made from the same tiger maple stock as the front legs. I milled four (4) pieces S4S and laid then out in different arrangements until I was happy with the pattern made by the grain. I then glued them up as a typical panel glue up.

After glue up the next step was to cut the shelf to size. I made it 24" x 24". As long as youre close the exact size doesnt matter. The cross bars will be relative dimensioned off of the shelf later. The exact size is not critical.

Its a very straightforward panel glue up.

The cuts were made with a track saw and my lovely 26" Woodpeckers try square. I tried to take equal amounts off each side in order to keep the panel seems symmetrical. After cutting to size I set the cutoffs aside, as they will come in handy later.

A big square is big handy.

With the shelf finished, I set it aside on stickers to allow air movement around it. This proved more important that I would have thought as accidentally leaving it directly on my table saw one night resulted in cupping. Luckily once I re-stickered it the sides reached equilibrium again and it flattened out.

Now that my legs and shelf were ready, it was time to begin laying out the joints.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part V The Needed Shelf

The Ultimate Quilt Rack

45 hours and 41 minutes into Lills Quilt Rack build I had an epiphany. Why was I taking hours and hours to make a gorgeous and shapely one of kind quilt rack? I dont know either.

The ultimate quilt rack for any quilting enthusiast.

I was sitting in my den when it hit me. We have a cheap metal quilt rack. Why make one by hand when I could simply re-purpose this one? This quilt rack is metal (stronger than wood), breaks down (easier to move) and is light weight (could blow over if let out in the wind).

I can live with the empty spot in my den as Aunt Lill will get a much better quilt rack for her 90th birthday.

Now we just need to buy a nice quilt to go on it and itll be ready to give to Aunt Lill.

http://www.amazon.com/Seasons-Collection-Fleece-Blanket-Chocolate/dp/B003U2SS3G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396312469&sr=8-3&keywords=fleece+blanket

Who wouldnt love to hang this up in their living room?

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

The Ultimate Quilt Rack

Lills Quilt Rack Part IX Its Getting Shapely In Here

With the cross pieces rough shaped and fit to length, I started the shaping of the quilt rack by hand shaping the edge of the maple front legs with my Shinto rasp. This was a little hard to reach due to the shelf being in place and it was also fairly slow. After roughing the curve of one front leg where it met the shelf, I soon switched methods.

The first, tepid shaping.

I dissembled the rack and began the rounding work by addressing the inside edge of each middle and rear leg at the overlap joint. These were the edge which buried into the adjoining, proud leg where they overlapped. Here I wanted a subtle curve, not the large flowing curve I would use elsewhere. When I found that I couldn’t fit my 1/8” round over router bit in because the bearing didn’t clear the leg joint, I used my Lee Valley cornering tool to create a simple 1/8” radius round over. By curving this edge, I not only maintained continuity with the overall curved design, I created a shadow line where the lack of curve could have revealed an uneven joint.

The Lee Valley 1/8" cornering tool worked wonderfully.

it left a softness to the finished joint.

Then I took out my RAS 115. I used a hard platen with 36 grit paper. Used with this setup on speed 1 the RAS is more like a gentle grinder than an aggressive sander. It effectively removes wood. With a little practice it leaves a fairly smooth curve.

Time for fun.

With the grunt work done by the RAS, I ran my hands over the curves. Any spots which were flat or where the curve felt uneven were further rounded and flared with the Shinto Rasp. This was the most important part of the shaping, as an uneven curve at this point would remain through the latter shaping stages. Then I went over the entire edge with my Auriou #9. This is a large, medium toothed rasp which further refined the shape and smoothed the surface. Finally I ran used my Gramercy 5” Cabinet Maker’s rasp over the whole curved surface. The Gramercy leaves a very smooth surface. So smooth, it’s sometimes hard to believe it came from a rasp.

Slowly, each leg went from square to this.

This process of RAS, Shinto, Auriou and Gramercy was repeated over and over and over as I worked my way over almost the entirety of the front and rear faces of each leg, turning the square edge into a flowing curve. The only locations I didn’t round over via this process were the leg-to-leg joints on the front leg. The rounding of these joints would have to wait until after glue up in order to avoid gaps.

This clamping worked, but was less than ideal.

I’ve learned that my face vise is less than ideal for the constant clamping, unclamping and re-clamping necessary for this type of round over work. I’m leaning towards a leg vise on my next bench. If anyone can speak to its utility regarding this task, I’d love to hear it.

Next time Ill get to sanding. For more quilt rack posts, check here.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part IX Its Getting Shapely In Here

Lills Quilt Rack Part VIII A Cross Piece To Hold A Quilt

With the joints at base of the legs and the shelf done, I once again dry assembled the quilt rack. This time I took blanks for the cross pieces and set them on the shelf, adjacent to their respective legs. By marking the cross pieces directly off the legs at this point I was able to accurately determine the length and ensure that the legs would remain parallel once the cross pieces were installed. I cut the cross pieced to length with my table saw.

The cross piece blanks are ready
to be marked.

I then took the cross pieces and fit them between the top of the legs, making a simple pencil mark spanning the legs and cross pieces at each of the six points where they met. These marks were centered across the cross piece by eye and served as the reference points off of which I milled the dominos. I used the Domino fence to reference off the front of the legs and the cross pieces, adjusting the depth to the middle of the legs (again by eye, this needn’t be perfect).

To mill the dominos I simply took out the cross pieces. I domioed them on the bench and dominoed the legs as they stood, dry fit to the shelf.

I had forgotten to mention, I miss milled a domino.
I plugged it and later cut it flush.

Using the domino mortises to determine the center line, I marked out lines down the length of each leg 1” wide (1/2” on each side of the center). These lines would indicate the width of the cross pieces along most of their length. The ends would flair, so I used a French curve to mark a large concave curve extending from each corner of the cross piece to the center line.

The french curve was used to flair from the 1" line to the corner.

I used a thick pencil mark to indicate the cut line, which running from corner to corner was French curve to straight line at 1” width back to French curve. I cut these line on the band saw. Because they would all receive major shaping, I cut close to or on the line and didn’t worry about going back with a template and router. Each cross piece was different and they need not perfectly match each other. I took the rough cut cross pieces and dry assembled once again.

Cross piece blanks, fresh off the saw.

The dominos hold the cross pieces flush with the face of the legs. Because the legs curved back and the cross pieces were milled square, this left the cross piece proud of the front of the legs at the top and bottom of the cross piece and proud of the back of the legs along the entire length of the cross piece. I marked the line of the back of the legs onto the cross pieces and pull them off once again.

The line is scribed even with the back of the legs.

I used two (2) drops of NexaBond glue to re-attach the cross piece cutouts. Because the tips of the cross pieces were now a bandsaw blade kerf proud of the glued in cutout, I trimmed the proud edges flush with my block plane (yes, a plane!). Using the table saw, I ripped the back of each cross piece just proud of the line I had marked. The leg curve was subtle enough that the straight table saw rip was pretty damn close. I used a heavy rubber mallet to knock off the off cuts and dry fit the cross pieces yet again.

Nice & flush with the face of the legs.

During this dry assembly I took my Shinto Rasp and shaped the front and back faces of the cross pieces flush with the legs. The quilt rack was now dry fit with everything cut to size. It was time to begin the shaping.

Next time, well begin the shaping. For all the Lills Quilt Rack Posts, click here.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part VIII A Cross Piece To Hold A Quilt

Lills Quilt Rack Part XI Assembly

I assembled Lill’s Quilt Rack in stages. I began by gluing the rear and middle legs together for each side. With this dry I glued the front leg to the rear/middle combo. The assembled sides were then glued to the shelf and cross pieces.

Step 1: I began by gluing up the rear leg assemblies.

Step Two: The right side legs, post glue up.

Step Three: The sides were glued to the shelf and cross pieces.

With those simple steps the quilt rack was assembled. For as many challenges as this project had, the glue up was not one of them.

To reinforce the leg to shelf joints, I installed one (1) Miller dowel through each leg into the base. Though made from the same wood as the legs, these dowels are clearly visible. I’m not sure if they add or detract from the aesthetics. Regardless, I feel that the strength they add makes them well worth installing.

Miller Dowels reinforce the leg-to-shelf joint.

Now it was time to finish flaring the legs.

First I flared the front (Tiger Maple) legs where they had been left square to fit in the joints cut in the middle and rear legs. Due to space restrictions I couldn’t use the RAS 115 in these joints. All the work had to be done with the Shinto, Auriou and Gramercy rasps. Where the rounded section of the leg transition to the square section in the joint I used my Gramercy rat tail rasp to create a tight curving transition. After finishing the first joint I began covering the adjoining Walnut leg with blue tape to minimize scratching.

It was only after they were glued together that I could
shape the leg-to-leg joints.

To curve and flair the cross pieces into the legs I used my Foredom rotary tool with a medium grit Kutzall head. I used this to create the rough curve on the flaring sections. Then, as I’ve said so many times before, I used my Shinto, Auriou and Gramercy rasps to ease and further flare the curve. For the cross pieces, this was especially important where the flaring sections met the previously shaped sections of the legs and cross pieces.

The cross piece faired into the leg.

The rough work of the cross piece to leg fairing was done
with my Foredom and a Kutzall bit.

Now that the rack is assembled and the shaping is complete, next time well sand. And then, sand some more.

See all of the quilt rack posts here.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part XI Assembly

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Lills Quilt Rack Part III Lumber Selection and Re Selection

With the design finalized and the templates made it was time to choose the lumber I would use.

Paduk in my lumber rack.

Intending to use them on this project, I had picked up two (2) large pieces of 6/4 lumber at the Woodworking Shows when they visited New Jersey in February. One (1) piece of walnut and another of paduk. Yet, when I looked at the boards next to each other in my lumber rack, I couldn’t see the Walnut and paduk playing well together. I decided to reconsider my lumber selection.

Which to choose?

In order to work out the wood types I would use I took a photo of the full sized drawing and made some black and white copies of it. Then I used crayons matching the basic shades to play with different woods and different wood-to-leg combinations. I settled on using walnut for the back and middle legs and a blond wood I believe to be apple for the front legs and the shelf.

With wood selected it was now time to finally start milling. I began with the blond wood. I have a stack of beautiful rough sawn blond wood about 5/4 thick and between 6” and 10” wide which was in the pile Kari Hultman generously gave me a few years ago. I believe it’s apple. I’m no arborist though and to be honest, I really have no idea. I’ve used in the past and found small insect holes in it. I found them to add character and in previous pieces they were always small holes.

These large voids were what I uncovered.

When I began milling this batch, I found the inset holes were much bigger in the pieces I’d selected. Large recess were revealed in a few pieces as I jointed them. I considered these pieces and was disappointed by the size of the insect holes. I was also unsure how the gaps would impact later construction when I needed reference surfaces that might have large voids in them.

I slept on it and ultimately decided to abandon the blond wood. After taking inventory of my lumber rack I settled on tiger maple as a replacement. I had enough of it and it would provide a beautiful contrast to the walnut.

Square and ready to go.

At this point I milled all the tiger maple square using my jointer and planer. The single walnut board I was using for the four (4) walnut legs had been surfaced S2S before I bought it. I hastily examined it, considered that it was wider than my 8” jointer and decided that it was flat enough.

Its almost flat and square.

It was flat “enough” . . . but it should have been flatter.

You can the previous Lills Quilt Rack posts here.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part III Lumber Selection and Re Selection

Lills Quilt Rack Part I The Inspiration

Quilt racks have become a specialty of mine. I was first assigned to make one for my Mother-In-Law in 2012. Since then I’ve also built Katie’s Quilt Rack. Over both builds I’ve found that working within the parameters of a quilt rack (two or three horizontal bars about 30” off the ground about 24” wide) allowed for lots of freedom with the overall form. From the beginning I’ve gone with curved quilt racks as I find the typical rectilinear ones boring.

Cathys Quilt Rack

Katies Quilt Rack

Earlier this year I was tasked with making my third quilt rack. This one is for my Wife’s Aunt Lill’s 90^th birthday. It’s made extra special by the fact that Lill is the first real quilter I’ve made a rack for. She’s been making quilts for every newborn in the family for the last five or six decades (my wife and three sons all have them). I’d say she’s probably made over 100 quilts.

For this rack I wanted to push the design even further than I have with my last two. Rather than simply starting with curves, I looked for design inspiration.

This inspiration originally came with a quilt rack I found on Pinterest. While I would always have made it of wood, the crossing legs caught my attention as I felt the forward and rear sweeping legs could be made from contrasting woods for visual contrast.

As I mulled that design over in preparation for Lill’s quilt rack I realized that it was similar to blades of grass crossing each other. As grass blades were more organic that chromed steel tubes, I kept looking along those lines and found this repeating grass blade pattern cut in the back of the benches outside my local library.

The grass blade pattern I found inspiring.

With the inspiration down, it was now time to translate the bench photo into a quilt rack.

Dont forget about the +Modern Woodworkers Association Podcast. We talk woodworking with Guests from around the world of woodworking every other week. Subscribe to the RSS feed or iTunes today.

Lills Quilt Rack Part I The Inspiration

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Home improvement expert Ron Hazelton shows how to build a wine rack a perfect woodworking project for wine connoisseurs. For more woodworking projects and tips visit ronhazelton.

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